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Surf Blog

September 7, 2008

Surf Journal Sept 7 2008

So this was the day we'd all been waiting for.  I've been surfing the Virginia Beach, VA area most of my surfing life.  Since the waves are fairly inconsistent and the gasoline not cheap, checking surf forecasting websites has become a morning ritual and an evening obsession as I roll through page after page of maps, charts, and finely tuned opinions concerning what the waves will do.  In all my years of checking such sites, I have never only seen the surf forecasted as "poor" of "fair" for the Virginia Beach area.  Imagine my surprise when I opened the surf forecast and read the word "good" describing the surf for Sunday the 7th and Monday the 8th!  Some sites predicted the surf to be at least head high and clean...     
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Tropical storm Hanna tucked into the east coast just below Cape Hatteras and was moving north, positioning itself just behind Virginia Beach and hinting at some serious off-shore wind.  At the same time, hurricane Ike was southeast of Florida, a category 4, and could possibly send swell north-northwest towards Virginia Beach... 

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Coffee in hand, I  stroll out of the Sandbridge Market  into a parking lot already filled with surfers.  The sun has not yet risen but everyone is bummed because we can already tell the surf is not as good as predicted.  Clean, mushy, chest high at best and a long wait between sets.  My hopes of shortboarding were ruined, so I drove the 100 yards to Surf & Adventure and picked up one of our demo stand up paddle boards, the 7S Uberfish (a 9'8" retro-fish quad fin... I know right?)  a few minutes later I was  paddling out and managed to catch a few drops, but the waves were closing out and almost unmakeable...   FREESURFTIPS.COM SURF BLOG

After a few sketchy drops on the paddle board, I decided I could try and go make lemonade with my shortboard.  I switched out the 9'8" monster for my trusty 6'2" thruster and walked north up the beach, in search of a sandbar that wasn't closing out.  Everyone who was out that morning knows exactly what happened next.  In the blink of an eye, in a time span of less than a second, the wind switched from breezy offshore to howling longshore out of the north.  This is a perfect example of how tempermental the Atlantic ocean can be;  less than an hour after sunrise and the winds had already changed for the worse.  I jumped in the water anyways and got a few turns in before the wind pushed me south to the Sandbridge Market again.  The morning did not go exactly as planned, but I managed to get a few good waves and a few good pictures to boot.  
 

I tried to look at the bright side: I might actually be early to work for a change. FREESURFTIPS.COM

 
All content copyright 2008 C. Stellato.  Questions, Comments?  Email the friendly surfer. 
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